Guitar Gear Forum

I had an EVM-12L sitting around so I built a TL-806 cab with extra space on the sides so it fits under my RedBear. Also has the Mitchell "donut" directivity mod.



Doesn't look too pretty (I'll probably tolex it and make a grill at some point) but it sounds huge. The combo of the Bear and this thing is pretty terrifying in terms of foundation vibrating bass.

Very nice - did something similar, but made into a 2x12 - other side is a half-back with an MC-90. Cab can take a lot of punishment

What does the mod do? Is it because the EV is really directional and the foam helps spread the sound?

Yeah it's similar to a beam blocker, just takes a different route to achieve it, and avoids the possibility of comb-filtering inherent in the beam blocker design. The EV's directionality coupled with it's extended high end can make for a piercing sound, so this mod reduces that laser beam effect.

still trying to build this:

Youngblood - what kind of joinery you going to use? I'm seeing butt joints without reinforcement. Might hold up ok, might not....

Butt joint are fine for cabs although for the cost of a kreg jig I would strongly recommend using screw pocket joints. You need to give a little thought to what radius you apply to roundover though otherwise the edges of the screws will be exposed.

Zozobra wrote:Butt joint are fine for cabs although for the cost of a kreg jig I would strongly recommend using screw pocket joints. You need to give a little thought to what radius you apply to roundover though otherwise the edges of the screws will be exposed.

Which is why I probably wouldn't go with pocket screws, unless you go from the outside - but then, you've got some seriously oblong holes to deal with when patching and filling. What's the story on tolexing something like that - will it suck into any voids that aren't perfectly flush, or is it pretty forgiving?

Me - I'm into cleats - and this design (TL806) is pretty damn stout with them.

Youngblood - How'd you come up with the design parameters? Does this fill some particular (custom) need? Have you seen the ported 1x12 design over on AX84.com?

...and serious apologies to the OP for hijacking. By the way, do you have any pics of the internal structure? Did you ever try out the plug for the middle port?

No hijacking concerns - it's great that people are sharing experiences/advice.

No I didn't take any pics of the internal structure, but it's the TL806 design so if you've seen one you've seen this one. It's full of insulation now as per the specs.

In terms of the port cover, my understanding is that it further extends the low end response by a half octave, but also rolls off the lows more gradually. Extending the frequency is of absolutely no use to me as I've already got my bass set on "1" on the amp, but the sloping roll-off looks like it could actually tame the lows a little, so I probably will try it at some point.

Zozobra wrote:Butt joint are fine for cabs although for the cost of a kreg jig I would strongly recommend using screw pocket joints. You need to give a little thought to what radius you apply to roundover though otherwise the edges of the screws will be exposed.

Something I thought about but didn't do is using dowels instead of screws, which would avoid the problem with rounding the edges but exposing the screw heads. Do people even build cabs like this or is it a bad idea?

SenatorClayDavis wrote:

Zozobra wrote:Butt joint are fine for cabs although for the cost of a kreg jig I would strongly recommend using screw pocket joints. You need to give a little thought to what radius you apply to roundover though otherwise the edges of the screws will be exposed.

Something I thought about but didn't do is using dowels instead of screws, which would avoid the problem with rounding the edges but exposing the screw heads. Do people even build cabs like this or is it a bad idea?

It's a great idea - and easy to do, although it takes a little more work.

Glue and screw your standard butt joints together - not worrying about the round over.
Let everything dry completely - then take OUT the screws and use the holes as pilots holes to drill for the dowels.
Coat the dowels in a thin layer of glue, and drive into the holes until flush.
Clean up any eccess glue - then when this has dried you can sand and roundover all you want - no screws to get in the way!

Just make sure you match your roundover bit to the corner hardware you are using (if any) so you have a nice fit.

1" x 1" blocks of wood glued full length in the inside corners add a lot of strength too - and you can use a bigger roundover if you want also.

SenatorClayDavis wrote:

Zozobra wrote:Butt joint are fine for cabs although for the cost of a kreg jig I would strongly recommend using screw pocket joints. You need to give a little thought to what radius you apply to roundover though otherwise the edges of the screws will be exposed.

Something I thought about but didn't do is using dowels instead of screws, which would avoid the problem with rounding the edges but exposing the screw heads. Do people even build cabs like this or is it a bad idea?

Dowels (or even biscuits, miller dowels, and the like) are ok, but totally not necessary with the TL806 design - the entire inner framework gives you a ton of cleat-like area to glue / nail / screw to, without going anywhere near the edges that will be rounded. With my Thiele, I was very careful to cut all my outer panels either dead-on or just shy wherever they butted up to another, knowing that I'd have plenty of cleat inside to fasten to. The thing pretty much seals itself, too.

You can do a similar thing with a cab like Youngblood drew and run 3/4" cleats where the panels butt together to give something to fasten to - I'd glue the crap outta the panel edge being joined, and screw / nail into the cleat, which gives a whole lot more surface area for strength and keeps the metal fasteners from becoming shrapnel when the router runs by. Only thing I don't know is how (if at all) that affects acoustics.

Or, you can do like pappa Fender and do finger joinery - that's some good stuff right there.

So I ended up tolexing the cab:

Nice job, it looks great

Nice work Senator

looks awesome! total cost, sans speaker, if you dont mind me asking?


and as far as that design i posted way back, the idea was to finger joint it, just didnt take the time to draw it into the inventor diagram

however, i've heard from builders lately that glue and screw really aint that bad.

Plywood: $35 (and I had enough left over to make a 2x12 without baffles)
Tolex: $25 (got 2 yards and there's tons leftover)
Corners: $1.50 each so $12 total
Sprat adhesive and black spray paint: $11
The grillcloth I got on sale for somewhere around $12 (also enough for 2 cabs)
I don't remember what I paid for the polyfill, but the sheet I got I've used to line 3 cabs now.
Various screws/glue etc. would be a couple bucks on top of that.

So spent close to $100 but that's basically enough material to make two cabs.

Y0UNGBL00D wrote:however, i've heard from builders lately that glue and screw really aint that bad.

Fingerjoining looks awesome, and would make a stronger cab, but properly done glue/screw butt joints with cleating inside is going to be plenty strong, and if you're not touring and throwing your cab in vans, down stairs, etc. is going to be more than strong enough for whatever you need. And once it's tolexed no one will ever know the difference.

There may be some opinions on differing tonal properties of fingers vs. butts, but I can't really see that being a huge factor. Hmmmmm.... should probably start a thread titled "fingers vs. butts" and see how that plays out.

I'm eyeing up the TL806Q plans now. Damnit

SenatorClayDavis wrote:

Y0UNGBL00D wrote:however, i've heard from builders lately that glue and screw really aint that bad.

Fingerjoining looks awesome, and would make a stronger cab, but properly done glue/screw butt joints with cleating inside is going to be plenty strong, and if you're not touring and throwing your cab in vans, down stairs, etc. is going to be more than strong enough for whatever you need. And once it's tolexed no one will ever know the difference.

There may be some opinions on differing tonal properties of fingers vs. butts, but I can't really see that being a huge factor. Hmmmmm.... should probably start a thread titled "fingers vs. butts" and see how that plays out.

That's a great looking cab. I'll be throwing one of these up soon with my 1x12 build. It's going to be stained and not tolexed though.

SenatorClayDavis wrote:Plywood: $35 (and I had enough left over to make a 2x12 without baffles)
Tolex: $25 (got 2 yards and there's tons leftover)
Corners: $1.50 each so $12 total
Sprat adhesive and black spray paint: $11
The grillcloth I got on sale for somewhere around $12 (also enough for 2 cabs)
I don't remember what I paid for the polyfill, but the sheet I got I've used to line 3 cabs now.
Various screws/glue etc. would be a couple bucks on top of that.

So spent close to $100 but that's basically enough material to make two cabs.

$100 for a brand new cabinet? That's great! I'm embarrassed to tell you what I just spent on a 1x15... even more embarrassed to tell you the I have a table saw in the garage.
Great job!!!

really does look outstanding.

i need to get a hold of a table saw. circular saw wouldnt really....cut it

Y0UNGBL00D wrote:really does look outstanding.

i need to get a hold of a table saw. circular saw wouldnt really....cut it

It can be done with a circular saw, just takes a steady hand. If you know your measurements, at least for the "big cuts" you can usually get your ply sheet cut where you buy it. At least that's what I did at Home Depot (had to be cut down to fit in the car).

SenatorClayDavis wrote:

Y0UNGBL00D wrote:really does look outstanding.

i need to get a hold of a table saw. circular saw wouldnt really....cut it

It can be done with a circular saw, just takes a steady hand. If you know your measurements, at least for the "big cuts" you can usually get your ply sheet cut where you buy it. At least that's what I did at Home Depot (had to be cut down to fit in the car).

or a circular saw + straight edge. that's what I do. . . .

trust me You will want a table saw until you use one Vs a good circular saw and a straight edge. that set up is good enough for 99% of projects.

(imho)