JCM 2000 pots repair inquiry:

paul6string · Post by **paul6string** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:24 am

I lent my DSL 100 head out for a benefit concert last weekend for 8 bands. When I got there, I noticed the knob was missing on the green channel gain pot. Upon closer inspection, the threaded part of the shaft was cracked and it broke in my hand with the nut attached to the portion of the shaft also. Does anyone know if the pots are soldered directly to a board, and if it's a difficult repair for a diy'er?

ke2 · Post by **ke2** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:48 am

Dunno if this gives you any clues, they seem to be PCB mounted..

http://www.newoldsounds.com/index.php?m ... 22_328_329

Zozobra · Post by **Zozobra** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:43 am

Its been a while since I've poked about in a DSL/TSL but here is a picture of the guts of one. You can see that the pots are PCB mounted and that the control PCBs are on break out boards so removing them to replace the pot should be pretty straight forward so long as you know how to use an iron on PCBs without ruining the traces. Check that the filter caps are drained before delving in.

GAS KING · Post by **GAS KING** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:45 am

Those are not very fun to replace.

GuitarBilly · Post by **GuitarBilly** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:46 am

yeah it's PCB mounted and the PCBs on the DSL are very thin. That's not a repair I would recommend for someone who's not very familiar with working with PCBs. Take it to a tech and charge it to whoever borrowed your amp.

100 watt · Post by **100 watt** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 11:41 am

Word. those newer style PCBs are a mofo to work on

GAS KING · Post by **GAS KING** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:14 pm

You can snip the tangs on the pot to make it easier to remove, but there's a chance that you may lift or damage a pad either way.

paul6string · Post by **paul6string** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:25 pm

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like a 100.00 job to me I'm going to assume.

100 watt · Post by **100 watt** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:27 pm

Hugh Jaynus wrote:You can snip the tangs on the pot to make it easier to remove, but there's a chance that you may lift or damage a pad either way.

Gotta be REALLY careful doing that, but it seems to be the best way.

I gotta do that on my little Marshall Bass 12 (same thing as a lead 12..just no dirt / od sounds) combo. The pots in it are all bad.

paul6string · Post by **paul6string** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 4:30 pm

Zozobra wrote:Its been a while since I've poked about in a DSL/TSL but here is a picture of the guts of one. You can see that the pots are PCB mounted and that the control PCBs are on break out boards so removing them to replace the pot should be pretty straight forward so long as you know how to use an iron on PCBs without ruining the traces. Check that the filter caps are drained before delving in.

I'm decent with a soldering iron, but never toyed with a pcb. I'm assuming I just need to keep the heat at the joint, and not liquify the board from the heat?

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JCM 2000 pots repair inquiry:

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